Saturday, March 10, 2012
This is the End...
5 days.
1,565 miles
The Milwaukee skyline appeared as the Random Road Trippers made their way to their final destiation. Weary after days of travel and conversation running thin, the goodbyes were short, but the bond of the Random Road Trip had now been forever forged between them.
From the dirty streets of the French Quater, Blues legends in Memphis, back roads of Kentucky, and speedways in Indiana, the road trippers had managed to see much of this great country.
They also did a pretty admirable job of eating their way through it as well. The following is a list of the better establishments they encountered on their trip:
1. Felix's Restaurant & Oyster Bar - 739 Iberville St, New Orleans, LA
2. Cajun Seafood - 1479 N Claiborne Ave, New Orleans, LA
3. Burge's Hickory Smoked Turkeys & Hams - 510 Spruce St, Lewisville, AR
4. Boulevard Bread Co - 120 Commerce St, Little Rock, AR
5. Charles Vergos' Rendezvous - 52 S 2nd St, Memphis, TN
6. The Arcade Restaurant - 540 S Main St, Memphis, TN
7. Greener Groundz Irish Pub - 871 Broadway Ave, Bowling Green, KY
8. Nick's Chili Parlor - 2621 Lafayette Rd, Indianapolis, IN
9. Lincolnwood Lou Malnati's - 6649 North Lincoln Avenue, Lincolnwood, IL
The Beet, the Boot and the Blonde have finished their trip, but this is the end of just one Random Road Trip - there will be many more to come.
Friday, March 9, 2012
Leaning Tower of Pizza???
As the sun was slowly setting on the final day of the trip, the Random Road Trippers had two destinations left. As they pulled off the freeway, for a second it looked like they had somehow been transported to Italy, but the FIB heckling the Arizona license plates on Beet's car quickly made it clear that this Leaning Tower of Pisa was located in Chicago. Well techincally it is the Leaning Tower of Niles, located in Niles, IL, but who can keep all of those northern suburbs straight?
Full Throttle Randomness
Nothing Starts the Day Like Bourbon
After a night filled with country roads and delicious pizza the Random Road Trippers awoke to a fierce rainstorm. Although it would have been nice to wait for the weather to clear, the schedule simply would not allow it.
As each of the roadtrippers carefully carried their armloads of "souvenirs" to the car, they took one last deep breath of the bourbon soaked air and headed to their next locale.
Thursday, March 8, 2012
It’s a Bird. It’s a Plane, No it’s Metropolis!
All Aboard!
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
Where There's Smoke, There's Fire
- Salvador Dali
Unlike Dali, the Random Roadtrippers never wanted to be cooks or Napoleon. Nor did we ever aspire to have crazy date-wax mustaches or consider paradise “lying naked in the sun covered with flies like a piece of carrion.
We did, however, all once aspire to becoming firemen. And what boy doesn’t? Firemen are big, brave, brawny, and drive awesome red trucks.
However, women take note. For most boys, the dream doesn’t die when we reach maturity. For we 20 and 30somethings, the lionization of firefighters post-9/11 is a recent and deep-set memory. And every time our girlfriends giggle about “walking past the fire station,” we cringe a little because we could all have been just as awesome if we’d just chased the dream.
That perhaps explains why – in the city of Elvis and Civil Rights – Ben chose the Fire Museum of Memphis as Day 5’s first stop. Located in downtown Memphis, the museum occupies two buildings of an old fire station. It is, also, as we soon discovered, exceedingly popular with school groups. Want to imagine the scene for yourself. Take 50 seven-year-olds, 200 pixie sticks, Barney the Dinosaur, combine and stir. The kids were so out of control that a kindly fireman suggested that perhaps we might enjoy the exhibits on the next floor until the group cleared out. Though, in fairness, Ben did a little shrieking of his own when we found Ol’ Billy, the life-size animatronic talking fire safety horse.
When in Memphis, go to the Fire Museum. They have fire trucks. They have toy fire trucks. They have a fireman’s pole that you can slide down. All nourishment for the inner boy. And after a thoroughly grown up evening the night before, eating racks of dry rubbed ribs and taking in a Beale Street blues act fresh off an appearance on the Voice, it was just the five-alarm call to our soul that we needed.
Tuesday, March 6, 2012
Down On Past the Old Mill
After a quick stop for lunch at the Boulevard Bread Company, home to the best pastrami in the state, Beets navigated the way through the streets of North Little Rock. As we continued to wind our way through the scenic neighborhood, a small reservoir opened to the right. Finally in front of a large stone wall, Jason was told to pull the car to a stop.
Still not exactly sure where Beets had led us, we walked through the wrought iron gate which revealed a scene half Lewis Carroll, half Splash Mountain, known as The Old Mill.
Nestled in one of end of the reservoir, a replica of an old mill stood, surrounded by oddly structured wood bridges and seats. Upon closer examination, what we thought was wood turned out to actually be made of cement, designed to look like wood by the secretive artist Dionicio Rodriguez. Known for mixing the coloring, bonding agents and other products in the trunk of his car (and would slam it shut if anyone came near) , his technique is so detailed you can identify the exact species of tree he was replicating.
The mill, although not a replica of any particular mill, is meant to represent the many mills that once dotted the Arkansas landscape. Surrounding the mill, two small footbridges allow visitors to wander through the manicured landscape, interspersed with Rodriguez’s work. Buttressing the far side of the park, a larger bridge crosses the water. The unusually high crown, along with stalactites hanging from the bottom gives it a very surreal look.
You may not know it, but you two have probably seen this mill, for it is thought to be the last remaining structure from the 1939 movie Gone with the Wind. It appeared in the opening scenes!
After getting our fill of this quirky spot, we once again headed back to road, heading east towards our next destination.
Spilsh, Splash!
A Place Called Hope
Say what you will about President William Jefferson Clinton. Orator. Playboy. Presider over the greatest economic expansion in American history. Disgraceful symbol of presidential excess. You cannot deny, though, that he personifies the American dream. His story is what Americans want our story to be. And he captured that aspiration in his 1992 nomination acceptance speech:
Somewhere at this very moment, another child is born in America. Let it be our cause to give that child a happy home, a healthy family, a hopeful future. Let it be our cause to see that child reach the fullest of her God-given abilities. Let it be our cause that she grow up strong and secure, braced by her challenges, but never, never struggling alone; with family and friends and a faith that in America, no one is left out; no one is left behind.
Let it be our cause that when she is able, she gives something back to her children, her community, and her country. And let it be our cause to give her a country that's coming together, and moving ahead -- a country of boundless hopes and endless dreams; a country that once again lifts up its people, and inspires the world.
Let that be our cause and our commitment and our New Covenant.
I end tonight where it all began for me: I still believe in a place called Hope.
“Hope,” in that instance, was a double entendre. It referred to our collective hope that Americans’ best days are still ahead of them, but it also referred to Bill Clinton’s humble boyhood home of Hope, a modest railroad junction town in southwest Arkansas.
The Random Roadtrippers pulled into Hope, Arkansas around 8:30 Monday night. We found a Best Western and unpacked. Then we took turns making up excuses – an evening constitutional, a phone call – to spend a half hour or so walking in the 55-degree pleasant evening air. We’d had dinner at Burge’s Smoked Hams and Turkeys in Lewisville, and we all looked a good 5 months pregnant with barbecue bloat. Burge’s has locations in Lewisville and Little Rock, and if you ever have the opportunity you should go. They cook up a mean Smoked Anything, and the ribs will have you sucking every last morsel of meat off the bones. Plus they’ll ship anywhere in the country.
Hope in the 1950s was a place of working class families making modest postwar livings. Other men of humble origins have occupied the oval office – Barack Obama comes to mine – but none have origins quite so humble as Bill’s. Tragedy struck early in the future president’s life when his alcoholic father widowed his mother Virginia in a car accident. Soon after Virginia decided to attend nursing school in New Orleans, leaving Bill in the care of his loving but stern grandparents.
That first home, Bill Clinton’s boyhood home and grandparents’ house, was our first stop Tuesday morning. A modest 1917 two-story country home next to the railroad tracks and in a now ramshackle neighborhood, the brand new National Park property (dedicated in 2011) is an easy place to miss. The visitors’ center has an unassuming gate off of a broken sidewalk, and two lonely park rangers occupy the sparsely furnished space. The upside, though, is that you get a very nice, very personal tour.
Our tour guide, a young African-American park ranger named Charles with a laugh just like Jay-Z’s seemed to have a genuine affection for the 42nd president. And that’s a good thing. Ben and Jason have been on a sort of Bill Clinton kick lately, following PBS’s recent American Experience documentary. The man may not have been very good at keeping it in his pants, but he was one heck of a politician. And after 12 years of ho hum or negative economic growth it’s kind of hard for anyone who came of age during the 90s not to feel a little nostalgic for him.
Plus there’s the unmistakable fact that Bill Clinton’s grandparents’ home looks and smells an awful lot like our grandparents’ homes: the same outdated furniture and wall paper, the 1950s layout, the creaky wooden stairs. I defy you to walk directly from a tricked out urban loft condo with a big granite kitchen island and massive entertainment center into a home like that. Then tell me where you feel more relaxed. Me, I’ll take the yellowed pages of a few youth novels and a few old tin toy trucks on Grandma’s carpet.
It will be interesting to see what happens to the Bill Clinton Boyhood Home in the next few years. Will the visitor’s center get better displays than the cheesy vinyl popup tradeshow graphics that presently reside there? Will the grounds get better landscaping than the house’s weed-overrun law? Will the Park Service buy Vince Foster’s boyhood home, now sitting dilapidated, an eyesore, next door? Will it get better neighbors than the used car lot across the street and the farm supply store around the way? Time will tell. Us, we tend to believe that, like so many low points in Bill Clinton’s career, 2012 is the beginning of a renaissance for this weathered corner of Hope, Arkansas. If the Comeback Kid has anything to say about it, we believe in a place called Hope.
Monday, March 5, 2012
Every Man a King, but No One Wears a Crown
- Rattlesnake boots and belts, worn by a State Senator
- Huey Long's golf clubs and dining room table
- The eye patch from a six-gun slinging, horse riding sheriff
- Earl Long's speaker-wagon (Pretty sure the inspiration of Blues-mobile)
- James Carville's business card reading "Pamphleteer and Raconteur"
After a quick photo-op, we were off on the road again, with Ben navigating the way.Earl Long: ...but the campaign took a toll, as he began drinking heavily and dating strippers..
Here Gator, Gator, Gator
You Boys Ain't From Around Here, Are You?
Plantation belles. Southern gentlemen. Cotillions. Slavery. Plantations conjure the South’s most graceful images and disgraceful history. Nothing on the Random Roadtrip is predestined, but I don’t think anyone gasped in surprise when Ben made our first stop the Houmas Plantation.
One of the region’s largest, wealthiest and, in more recent times, most visited and most photographed sugar estates, the Houmas Plantation is now owned by one Kevin Kelly.
We arrived just before 8:00 p.m., in time for the last tour. Mr. Kelly and his dogs Grace and Sugar Baby, who live in the old mansion, were just getting home. Our tour actually startled them. I couldn’t help wondering about this man, a kind and intelligent looking man with healthy cheeks, a jolly round belly and reading glasses hanging around his neck. I did a little homework and found out that Kelly, a native of New Orleans, is president of a company called Port Services that warehouses a great deal of the coffee entering the United States. What a gracefully old school way to make a fortune.
Mr. Kelly is less famous, though, than the house’s canine residents, especially the elder dame of the manor, Grace. In 2003, Kelly staged a publicity stunt to mark the plantation’s reopening to tours. In an elegant garden ceremony, Princess Grace (Kelly, naturally) wed the handsome Dutch labrador King Sam. ABC News and CNN both covered the event. Now a widow, Grace has aged as gracefully as any fine plantation mistress. Mr. Kelly gave us a moment to wish her hello and rub her belly.
As an old building, the mansion is every bit as elegant as other old buildings of the 18th and 19th centuries. Mount Vernon. Monticello. They all have the same historic curiosities: the bric-a-brac, the curiously low dining room tables, the perilously high four poster beds and the fine mirrors distorted with age.
The Houmas Plantation, though, is a living museum – home to Esquire’s 7th best restaurant in the United States and Mr. Kelly’s home. Kelly has good taste and one hell of a private art collection. Turn around in the dining room, and you’ll spot an original Gaugin: an unsigned painting of the artist’s Tahitian mistress on Tahitian wood. Outside in one of the manicured garden’s pavilions is a Chillui chandelier. The plantation has all of the 19th century charm one expects, but plenty of more recent attractions to surprise and delight the visitor who knows a little about art.
And the guide, George, was every bit as charming as you could hope. He casually dropped references to the “War of Southern Independence” like the best of them, and he had a fun anecdote about very little artifact in the house. All one had to do was ask. When one fellow tour goer asked about the status of house slaves (versus field slaves), all George had to do was point to the “Uncle Tom” painting hanging on the wall behind her. George also had a few thought provoking facts to share. This student of history was well aware that the Emancipation Proclamation did not free the slaves. (The 13th Amendment did, which the Southern States were forced to ratify in exchange for readmission to the Union.) I did not know that parishes like the Houmas Plantation’s were allowed to keep their slaves until 1872, a reward for voting against secession.
After the guided house tour and Louisiana history lesson, George encouraged us to continue traversing the beautifully landscaped gardens, peppered with gazebos, fountains, flower and herb plots, and ponds. While dark, the gardens and live oaks allowed us to bask in the charm of a crisp southern spring evening.
Baton Rouge had few to none non-chain, cockroach-free lodging options which prompted our stay at the Magnuson Hotel (no presumed relation to world’s strongest man, Magnús Ver Magnússon). While we considered attending the U.S. Bowling Congresses Bowling Championship, being held that evening in Baton Rouge, we intelligently resigned to a quiet evening at the hotel, looking forward to our first hangover free morning together.
Sunday, March 4, 2012
Saturday, March 3, 2012
Houston – At Least We Aren’t in Milwaukee
Friday, March 2, 2012
The Beet, The Boot and The Blonde
The rules are staying the same with a few modifications:
- Destinations can be up to three hours apart from each other
- Each successive destination must be farther north than the previous
- The interstate cannot be used, unless in extreme circumstances